Beyond the Pass

A Letter to the Restaurant Industry

People say you have to be a little crazy to work in a professional kitchen.

Maybe they’re right.

We willingly step into an environment built on relentless pressure, impossible standards, blistered hands, and sleepless nights – all in pursuit of creating something extraordinary. We work weekends, holidays, birthdays, and anniversaries. We sacrifice our bodies, our relationships, and, at times, our mental health for the craft we love.

And despite all of that…

We keep coming back.

Why?

Because there is something extraordinary about this industry.

There is something deeply human about feeding another person. About transforming simple ingredients into memories – moments of celebration, comfort, connection, and love. About working alongside people who become your second family.

Every service is a performance.

Much like an orchestra, each of us has a part to play. Some stand in the spotlight – executive chefs, restaurant owners, sommeliers. Others spend their entire careers just beyond it: dishwashers, prep cooks, line cooks, bussers, servers. Without them, the performance simply could not go on. Hospitality has never been built by one person. Behind every plate is an entire team, each playing an indispensable role.

  • Women fighting to earn respect in male-dominated kitchens.
  • Immigrants whose labor forms the backbone of restaurants across the United States.
  • LGBTQ+ workers navigating environments where authenticity has too often come at a cost.
  • Countless others whose contributions have been essential, even when their voices were overlooked.

Yet for generations, many of the people who make this industry possible have remained largely unseen.

Many have found extraordinary mentors, lifelong friendships, and careers they love.

Others have experienced harassment, discrimination, exploitation, isolation, or silence.

Both realities exist.

At the end of the day, regardless of who we are or where we come from, most of us want the exact same thing:

“We just want to fucking cook.”

Kitchen staff sitting together outside against a red brick wall, eating during a break
Coi • San Francisco • 2014

Beyond the Pass was created for the voices that too often remain behind kitchen doors.

This is not a platform built on resentment, nor is it an indictment of an industry that has given so many of us purpose, belonging, and joy. When hospitality is at its best, there is nothing quite like it. Many of the people who have shared their stories with me have worked in extraordinary kitchens led by compassionate, supportive leaders. Those stories deserve to be told, too.

But loving an industry should never require us to ignore its flaws.

The stories collected here are not shared to assign blame or diminish the profession we love. They are shared because silence has protected harmful systems for far too long. Many of these accounts are being told publicly for the very first time. Each one is an act of trust, vulnerability, and courage.

My hope is simple.

That these stories spark conversations in professional kitchens, culinary classrooms, and around dinner tables with family and friends. That they inspire leaders to build workplaces where excellence is measured not by how much someone is willing to sacrifice themselves, but by how much respect they show the people beside them.

An industry where everyone – regardless of gender, race, nationality, sexual orientation, identity, or job title – can walk into work knowing they will be valued for their talent, respected for their humanity, and protected in their workplace.

If we believe hospitality begins with caring for strangers, then surely it must begin by caring for one another.

Because every plate tells a story.

It’s about time we listen.